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Two Magpies

James MacDonald

The two magpies does simple well. A deceptively difficult feat which they manage effortlessly.

Two Magpies

The Gen
This review was originally written pre lockdown, and the only thing that’s kept me going for the last year is the promise of a return trip!
I visited the bakery on their six-week birthday and I’m ashamed to say I didn’t bring them a present. What do you even buy a bakery? Yeast? Do they want yeast? Because I know a guy, I can get them yeast. It might be unsanitary though. Maybe a bunch of flours?
I doubt they need anything from me however as the place was packed with punters and had been from day one. There is a good reason. The spot on Timber Hill is the fourth Two Magpies location bringing their award winning freshly baked bread and cakes and breakfast, brunch, and lunch to the castle quarter.The Gen
I visit the bakery on their six-week birthday and I’m ashamed to say I didn’t bring them a present. What do you even buy a bakery? Yeast? Do they want yeast? Because I know a guy, I can get them yeast. It might be unsanitary though. Maybe a bunch of flours?
I doubt they need anything from me however as the place was packed with punters and has been from day one. There is a good reason. The newly opened bakery on Timber Hill is the fourth Two Magpies location bringing their award winning freshly baked bread and cakes and breakfast, brunch and lunch to the Castle Quarter.
 
Atmosphere
The staff were busy with the never dwindling queue of hungry customers but were super friendly, even when trying to stop me from self-isolating in the cake cabinet. The cakes were all just so beautiful – if I have to be holed up somewhere for a couple of weeks I want it to be with those incredible looking puds.
We’re welcomed with tier upon tier of baked delights over which the smells of the kitchen and it’s freshly baked bread can roll. With food to go and dining space to make a meal of your trip the Two Magpies is there to satisfy all your bread based needs. And boy, do I have bread based needs. Always. Constantly. Their industrial aesthetic feels stylishly utilitarian with grey painted breeze blocks and exposed fittings tying in the dining area with the open kitchen. It looks very on trend. (As if I know what’s cool! Ha!)

 
The Main Event
I can carb load faster than a Hovis lorry on a 4am delivery run so I remind myself to slow down and actually enjoy the quality sourdough bread, hand shaped and baked on site. Using a live culture, locally milled flour and natural ingredients this bread is just fantastic; crusty and soft in equal measure. They also boast that the bread is edible to many folks who believe themselves gluten intolerant and honestly, thank God. The world is a pretty rotten place at the best of times and bread is one of the few things that keeps me going.
For a hearty brunch I order the Shakshuka, a poached egg served in spiced beans with a shot of crème fraiche. This little dish is served alongside two mighty slabs of sourdough cut with my idea of portion control (none). It’s essentially posh beans on toast but I dig it with the egg bursting with flavor and the crème fraiche a creamy cooling counter tone to the piping hot beans.
With this we also had mushrooms on toast and the bricks of sourdough were the perfect fit absorbing all the delicious juices while still managing to maintain its rustic consistency. The lamb’s leaf salad with it was interestingly sweet and gave a little something extra to the firm bite of the mushrooms.


 
Pud
Damn! Those cakes looked good, choosing one was like picking your favourite child (difficult but you have to do it). There was a handsome looking gingerbread man, but I’ve made the decision never to eat something after its smiled at me. In the end I chose the clementine loaf cake, the picturesque dribble of icing an artist’s impression of what a cake should look like. Like plucking pudding from a Ghibli film the firm glazed surface cracked to reveal the delicate interior – a light citrus of edible potpourri. (Although, if you ask me, all potpourri is edible. You’re all just weak.)
The dreamy apple cake certainly lives up to its name and, with luck, will be visiting my dreams for nights to come. It had a joyously moist texture and the marscapone was balanced out by big chunks of fresh-tasting apple.
 


Overall
The two magpies does simple well. A deceptively difficult feat which they manage effortlessly. Of course, I don’t care, I just love bread. I was always going to like this place. They even sell dog biscuits and, to be honest, I’d probably enjoy those too. I have a problem, but not to worry, I know a great new bakery. That’ll make me feel better!
 
Venue – 6.5
Fodder – 8.5
Value – 8
Overall – 7.5